Tourism for American Servicemen – A 1963 USO Guide to Saigon

USO 1965

The USO Club of Saigon in 1965 by Bruce Baumler

In 1963, the USO Club of Saigon issued a leaflet promoting its services and suggesting the following tourist itinerary around the city for US military personnel and their dependents.

Saigon 1964 - Le Loi Blvd

Lê Lợi boulevard in 1964, photographer unknown

The newcomer to Saigon is often agog with the myriad of signs on all sides of him, brightly painted in a multitude of colors, proclaiming the fascinating sights to be seen here; the countless shops, row upon row, pressed in so closely together; and here and there, unexpectedly, a truly unusual temple or a very modern building can be seen among the great masses of people hurrying along Saigon’s busy streets.

In an effort to give a little aid to the military personnel and their dependents who are interested in visiting as many of these places as their time allows, the USO has compiled a list of the locations and other available information concerning the most popular points of interest.

Construction of new government building 1963

“Construction of new government building in 1963,” photographer unknown

Perhaps you might start your tour by driving or walking by the Independence Palace, which, until November 11 1962, was the residence of President Ngo-Dinh-Diem. This once beautiful palace is now in the process of being completely rebuilt after a bombing destroyed it. It is expected that it will be finished and ready for President Diem’s occupancy in 1964.

How about a ride in one of the city’s many cyclos? It is an exciting experience and the next stop on our tour might be Our Lady’s Basilica in Hoa-Binh Square, one of the oldest buildings in Saigon. Mass is said here in French and Vietnamese. Everyone is welcome to this lovely old church.

Saigon 1960 - Post Office

Saigon Post Office in 1960, photographer unknown

As we swing around the square, we notice on our left the large clock on the PTT Building (Post Telegrams and Telephones). The commercial post office is located here and all postal services are available. It is also possible to place long distance calls from here. The PTT building is open from 7.30am until 8pm. This includes Holidays but not Sundays.

Continuing down Tu Do Street, we are headed toward the river. On our left we pass a large white building which is the National Assembly Building. No one is allowed to visit unless they have been given special permission to go on official business. Here the government has a meeting hall and offices for the various government officials. Policemen in white uniforms guard this building days and night.

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Saigon – the Trung Sisters statue, photographer unknown

If we cut over a block to the left, we will be on Hai Ba Trung, and turning right, headed for the river front. Right in front of us is the Memorial to the Trung Sisters. These ladies were the heroines of the Vietnamese Struggle for Independence in 40AD. If you look very closely, we’ve been told that you will see a strong resemblance between the Trung Sisters’ faces and Madame Nhu, the President’s sister-in-law, and the first lady of the Republic of Viet-Nam!

Along this river, which joins the China Sea and has piers for loading and unloading ships for long-range or short-range trips, there are many interesting sights.

Time for lunch? There are many restaurants featuring French and Chinese as well as Vietnamese foods located all over the city, and one can have fun just trying them out, as they have good food and lots of local color. But at the USO, a good old American sandwich and a milk shake tastes pretty good too!

Lê Văn Duyệt

Lê Văn Duyệt Mausoleum, photographer unknown

In this fascinating city of the Far East, the old temples and pagodas are especially interesting to someone from the western world. One such temple is the Tomb of Marshal Le-Van-Duyet, military hero under the Gia-Long dynasty. He was called the Unifier of Viet-Nam in the 19th Century. It is a very impressive place to visit, and also noteworthy that if you can get a little assistance from a Vietnamese person, you can have your fortune told right here! This temple is located all the way out Hai Ba Trung, where it intersects with Chi Lang.

There are other Buddhist temples and pagodas throughout the city. The Xa-Loi Temple is located at Ba Huyen Thanh Quan Street. Here, a statue of Buddha can be seen in a golden case which came all the way from India.

American girls say goodbye to beautiful Xa Loi Pagoda US Pocket Guide

“American girls say goodbye to the beautiful Xa Loi Pagoda,” from the US Pocket Guide, 1962

By the way, a Temple is where Buddhists worship many heroes and heroines but a Pagoda is where many men worship Buddha. There is a Hindu Temple at Ton That Thiep Street, and this the meeting place for the thousands of people from India who own many of the city’s shops. Visitors are welcome here too, but it is customary to remove your shoes before entering.

There are so many other Temples and Pagodas that they are too numerous to mention here, but a little investigating will be all you need to find a different experience in store for you, in quite a few of them.

The National Museum and War Memorial Monument are located at Thong Nhat. The Zoo and Botanical Gardens are also here. The grounds are open every day and admission is 2$ for adults and 1$ for children (except on Thursdays when the admission is free).

SAIGON 1965 - National Museum - Photo by Robert Gauthier

The National Museum in 1965 by Robert Gauthier

In the National Museum there are many exhibits of Vietnamese pottery and the costumes of ancient Kings. Some examples of traditional Vietnamese furniture are on display, along with the cut crystal vase presented to President Diem by our Past-President, Eisenhower.

In the Zoo and Botanical Gardens there are several unusual species of birds and animals, as well as an elephant which will pray for you if you give him a piece of sugar cane.

If we go out Le Loi Street, we will pass the Central Market of Saigon, and we must stop for a while and visit the multitude of tiny stalls, where all kinds of beautiful material can be purchased, as well as many, many other items, such as the lovely lacquerware of Viet-Nam, and anything else you may need, from food to the pots in which to cook it.

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The Saigon Cemtral Market, photographer unknown

The merchants speak French or Vietnamese, but don’t let it stop you if you do not speak these languages! Just take along a pencil and paper and show that you want them to write down the price for you, and they will find someone to do that. Then, let’s see how good a bargainer you are!

If we continue in this direction, the street will become Tran Hung-Dao and we will be on our way to Cholon, the Chinese section of Saigon. Here, the shops are very numerous, and there is another large market. Cholon has many excellent restaurants, also. At night, the visitor is treated to a bright display of neon signs almost rivalling the cities in the United States.

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A side canal off the Ben Nghe Creek, in 1965 by Thomas W Johnson.

Since our space is limited here, we will end the tour in Cholon (just take one of the hundreds of tiny taxis back to the center of the city). However, there are many more interesting things to see in this unusual place and we, at the USO, will be more than happy to supply the information you may need in locating these places, or we will find someone for you who can! Be sure to stop in often to see us and say “Hi” (we all speak English!).

Located at 119 Nguyễn Huệ, the USO Club of Saigon was advertised as “a home away from home for American military personnel and associated civilians.” Run by a federation of six civilian agencies (YMCA, YWCA, Salvation Army, National Catholic Community Service, National Jewish Welfare Board and National Travelers’ Aid Association), the USO Club was “an overseas operation administered by USO, through which the American people serve the spiritual, welfare and educational needs of the men and women in the Armed Forces.” It was open every day from 9am to 11pm and contained an information and resource office for US servicemen, a restaurant, a bar and a games hall.

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Old Saigon Building of the Week – Saigon Municipal Theatre, 1900

Cochinchine – Saigon – Théâtre Municipal

This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

Built by the French at the mid-point of historic rue Catinat, the Municipal Theatre is one of Saigon’s most iconic landmarks.

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From 1862-1872, performances by visiting French theatre troupes were held regularly in the Salle de spectacles of the first Governor’s Palace – image from Paul Boudet and André Masson, Iconographie historique de l’Indochine française, 1931

Western theatre was popular in Saigon from the earliest years of the French colony. For more than a decade after the arrival of the first European settlers, performances by visiting French troupes were held regularly in the Salle de spectacles of the first Governor’s Palace, a series of wooden buildings which had been purchased in kit form from Singapore and assembled in 1861-1862 for Admiral-Governor Bonard.

The first purpose-built city theatre was constructed in 1872 on the site of today’s Caravelle Hotel. According to an article of 3 June 1880 in the Courrier de l’Indochine, this first Saigon theatre specialised not in the operas of Gluck or Mozart, but rather in “the works of Offenbach, Lecocq and other geniuses of the comic genre.”

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The location of the second Théâtre de Saïgon on the site of today’s Caravelle Hotel is indicated clearly on this 1893 map of Saigon

Although this has yet to be verified, some sources suggest that this first Saigon theatre was built from wood, and that in around 1881 it was destroyed by fire. It was rebuilt using more durable materials, and opened in 1884. Describing this second theatre in 1887, Le Figaro newspaper commented: “it is simple and the architecture is very primitive – but it is impossible to burn down!”

Writing in August 1893, La Revue hebdomadaire was more flattering. “It’s so pretty, our Saïgon theatre, with its boxes decorated with hanging plants and its wide verandahs filled with flowers! What more wonderful setting could there be in which to meet pretty ladies wearing the latest fashions, officers in uniforms embroidered in gold, elegant gentlemen, and mandarins dressed in rich silk costumes?”

Saïgon, 1885-1890 – L’ancien théâtre, Extrait d’un album des années 1890, AAVH showing the second Théâtre de Saïgon, which stood approximately on the site of today’s Caravelle Hotel

Two decades later, George Dürrwell would write nostalgically about the former theatre, which he described as “so small and so simply decorated, yet so cosy and intimate, surrounded by lawns and shaded by large trees.”

As early as 1893, the powers-that-be decided that Saigon needed a larger and more impressive theatre building, one which better reflected the perceived glories of the French empire.

In 1895, a design competition was organised and the submissions of three architects – Ferret, Genet and Berger – were shortlisted. Eventually, the judges selected the design of Eugène Ferret, who reportedly had taken his inspiration from the Petit Palais in Paris. Early in the following year, Ferret’s winning plans for the new 800-seat “Grand-Théâtre de Saigon” were placed on display at the 1896 Exposition du théâtre et de la musique in Paris.

Saïgon – Théâtre Municipal – a “colorised” photograph of the Théâtre de Saïgon in the early 20th century

Work began in late 1896, and Saigon’s third and current theatre was completed in late 1899. It was inaugurated on 15 January 1900, in the presence of Saigon mayor Paul Blanchy and Prince Waldemar of Denmark, who was then making a state visit to Indochina. The inaugural performance featured the Asian premiere of Jules Massenet’s opera La Navarraise.

Ferret’s design was widely praised. The arts correspondent for Le Monde (13 January 1901) described the theatre as “an architectural marvel,” while L’Indo-Chine 1906, by Joseph Ferrière, Georges Garros, Alfred Meynard and Alfred Raquez, commented: “The monument is very fine, indeed, almost luxurious, and cleverly laid out for the needs of the theatrical arts in quite irreconcilable climatic conditions.”

“Cochinchine – Saigon – Rue Catinat (Sud) – another “colorised” photograph featuring the Théâtre de Saïgon in the early 20th century

However, at the outset, the theatre’s substantial construction cost – over 2.5 million francs – attracted much criticism, both in the colony and in France, from those who believed that the money would have been better spent on building a replacement Central Market, or upgrading the city’s inadequate utilities.

Securing enough annual funding to run the new venue proved to be an even bigger headache.

As early as the 1870s, the city decided to engage the services of a director-impresario to run the Saigon theatre and to ship out performing companies from France to perform in it. Before the inauguration of the Grand-Théâtre de Saigon, the colonial records afford us only occasional glimpses of the work of these early director-impresarios, larger-than-life characters such as Emile Pontet and Louis Achard, who constantly fought their corner at municipal council meetings in order to secure an adequate annual subvention.

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An aerial photograph of the Théâtre de Saïgon in the 1940s

In advance of the opening of the new “Grand Théâtre Municipal de Saigon,” the authorities announced with great fanfare the appointment of Messrs Boyer, Baroche and Compile as director-impresarios to run the new venue. The decision to overlook the incumbent theatre director Paul Maurel was a controversial one, and must have been very hurtful for Maurel himself, particularly since senior partner Aristide Boyer had worked under him for several years as the previous theatre’s secretary general.

After considerable debate, the new theatre was awarded a 200,000 franc annual operating subsidy, out of which 120,000 francs was to be paid by monthly allowance of 20,000 francs to director-impresarios Boyer, Baroche and Compile, and 70,000 francs was allocated for company travel. Just 10,000 francs was provided annually for renewal or maintenance of theatre equipment. It should be remembered that initially, because of the heat, the theatre only functioned for four months of the year (October-January). By 1910, Saigon’s “theatre season” had been extended by two months until April.

“Saigon – Théâtre municipal” in the early 1950s, showing how the façade was modified in the previous decade

However, within just five months of the opening of the new theatre, Boyer, Baroche and Compile had “accumulated a considerable amount of debts” and resigned their position. Thereafter, the municipal authorities decided to engage their director-impresarios on an annual basis – but not before contrite council members had invited Paul Maurel back to clean up the financial mess left by his predecessors.

The Théâtre de Saigon continued to receive a large annual subsidy for the presentation of “opera, comic opera, operetta and comedy by visiting French theatre companies” until the late 1920s. Then, against a background of economic downturn and increased competition from other places of entertainment, the municipal government pulled the plug. During the later colonial period it was almost exclusively rented out for amateur events and the occasional gala performances.

5 The Municipal Theater in Saigon (~Jul 1972) Kemper

The Municipal Theatre in July 1972, functioning as the Lower House of the National Assembly, photo by Kemper14 via Virtual Saigon

During the Japanese occupation of Indochina (1940-1945), the French Vichy authorities moved to eliminate visible symbols of the now moribund Third Republic. and the façade of the theatre was completely remodelled. Then in 1944, it was seriously damaged by Allied bombing.

Following basic repairs in the early 1950s, the theatre was used in the wake of the Geneva Agreement of 1954 as temporary accommodation for homeless migrants from the north.

After 1955, the theatre building was completely refurbished and transformed into a National Assembly building. When the constitution of the Republic of Việt Nam was revised in 1967, creating a bicameral parliament, it became the Lower House (Hạ Nghị viện) of the National Assembly, while the Diên Hồng Hall (the former Chambre de commerce) became the Upper House (Thượng Nghị viện) or Senate.

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The Municipal Theatre in 1991 (photo by Tim Doling)

Reopened as a theatre in 1979, it was completely refurbished in 1995-1998 with French assistance to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the city of Saigon. As part of this project, the Municipal Theatre was provided with state-of-the-art electrical equipment, air-conditioning, lighting and sound systems and fire and safety equipment.

Many of its original architectural and decorative features were also reinstated at this time, including the stone veranda and white stone statues at the entrance, granite tiled floors, chandeliers, bronze statues in front of the lobby stairs and auditorium arch and wall bas-reliefs.

“Dessin architectural du Théâtre Municipal, reproduced in Pairaudeau, Natasha et al (eds), Saïgon 1698-1998 Kiến Trúc/Architectures Quy Hoạch/Urbanisme (Nhà Xuất Bản Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh, 1998)

Saigon – Théâtre Municipal

Cochinchine – Saigon – Square du Théâtre

“Saigon, 1960s – Trụ sở Quốc hội – Headquarters of the National Assembly”

“Saigon – Trụ sở Quốc hội – Chambre de Deputes – Chamber of Deputies”

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The Municipal Theatre today (photo by Tim Doling)

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Old Saigon Building of the Week – St Paul’s Convent, 1863

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The exterior of St Paul’s Convent Chapel

This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

Occupying a large, leafy compound on Tôn Đức Thắng street in District 1, the Convent of Saint-Paul de Chartres is another rarely-visited haven of peace in busy Hồ Chí Minh City.

Faced immediately after the conquest with an urgent need for education, healthcare and welfare facilities in their new colony, the French turned to the religious orders for support.

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Reverend Mother Superior Benjamin (1821-1883)

In March 1860, at the invitation of Bishop Dominique Lefèbvre, the Congregation of the Sisters of Saint-Paul de Chartres sent two Sisters to Saigon, where they set up a Sainte-Enfance or “Holy Childhood” orphanage for local street children in temporary premises close to the first bishop’s palace on modern Nguyễn Công Trứ street (District 1). In the following year, the Reverend Mother Superior Benjamin arrived from Hong Kong to manage this establishment.

In 1862, Admiral-Governor Bonard responded to a request by the Reverend Mother Superior for larger premises by granting the Sisters a large plot of land on boulevard de la Citadelle (modern Tôn Đức Thắng street), between the St Joseph’s Seminary and the naval shipyard. Nguyễn Trường Tộ was appointed as architect, and in May 1864 the École de Sainte-Enfance complex – comprising Orphanage, Convent and Convent Chapel – was inaugurated.

La Sainte Enfance par Emile Gsell (ca.1866)

Emile Gsell’s 1866 photograph of Nguyễn Trường Tộ’s original Sainte Enfance compound

Over the following decade, as many young Vietnamese women chose to enter the order, the Sisters were able to expand their operations throughout the south. They opened schools and orphanages in Tân Định, Thị Nghè, Biên Hòa, Mỹ Tho and Vĩnh Long; they founded and ran the Chợ Quán Hospital and the Hôpital indigène in Thị Nghè; and they supplied nursing staff to the Hôpitaux militaires (Military Hospitals) in Saigon and Mỹ Tho and the Hôpitaux indigènes (local people’s hospitals) in Mỹ Tho and Biên Hòa. Then in 1883, after the French had established a foothold in the north, the Sisters opened orphanages and hospitals in both Hà Nội and Hải Phòng.

Les Sœurs de Saint Paul à Saigon

St Paul’s Convent in the early 20th century

Unfortunately, since their original Saigon headquarters buildings had been constructed largely from wood, termite damage and dry rot quickly took its toll, and by the 1880s the Sisters were obliged to carry out a costly rebuild. This time they turned to Father Charles Boutier of the Société des Missions Étrangères de Paris (Society of Foreign Missions of Paris, MEP), an architect of considerable merit who had previously designed the Thủ Đức Church. The new complex was inaugurated in 1895.

In 1924, the name of the compound was officially changed from Saint-Enfance to Couvent St Paul de Chartres (St Paul’s Convent).

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In 1945, the Convent was accidentally hit by more than 30 Allied bombs, causing serious damage to many of the buildings

Being so close to the naval port, the Convent was accidentally hit in 1945 by more than 30 Allied bombs, which caused serious damage to many of the buildings. They were extensively reconstructed in the period 1946-1952. In 2009, the entire compound was completely refurbished.

After 1975, the various educational and medical facilities run by the Sisters were brought under government control. Since that time, St Paul’s has continued to function as a Christian community under monastic vows, although it no longer occupies the whole of the original compound.

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The former convent building used to depict the Pensionnat Lyautey in Jean-Jacques Annaud’s 1992 film version of Marguerite Duras’ The Lover)

The section which from 1908-1939 housed the Clinique du Docteur Angier now functions as a kindergarten, while the building which sits on the Tôn Đức Thắng-Nguyễn Hữu Cảnh street junction (used to depict the Pensionnat Lyautey in Jean-Jacques Annaud’s 1992 film version of Marguerite Duras’ The Lover) was taken over by the government after 1975 and now functions as Saigon University’s Nursery School Teacher Training Faculty.

Today, the centre piece of the compound is still the Convent Chapel, a Gothic structure dating from 1895 which was extensively rebuilt after sustaining bomb damage in 1945. Accessed by a side stairway, it comprises a tall vaulted nave flanked by vaulted aisles and side corridors.

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Another early 20th century image of St Paul’s Convent

On the ground floor immediately behind the Convent Chapel is a Heritage House (Nhà Truyền thống), which may be visited on request. Set up like a small museum, it recounts the history of the Congregation of the Sisters of Saint-Paul de Chartres in their native France, and the establishment and development of St Paul’s Convent in Saigon, a large model of which dominates the display area. The Heritage House also introduces other aspects of the order’s charitable work throughout the region.

Getting there
Address: Tu viện Phaolô, 4 Bis Nguyễn Trung Ngạn, Phường Bến Nghé, Quận 1, Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh
Telephone: 84 (0) 8 3822 3387, 84 (0) 8 3910 4454 (Vietnamese language only)
E-mail: info@saintpaulsg.com
Opening hours: On request 7am-12pm, 2pm-5pm daily

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A cartoon depicting the charitable work of the Sisters

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Another view of the exterior of St Paul’s Convent Chapel

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The interior of St Paul’s Convent Chapel

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The interior of the St Paul’s Convent Heritage House

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Icons of Old Saigon – The Canal Bonard, 1893

COCHINCHINE - CHOLON - L'Arroyo

The canal Bonard, viewed from the Palikao Bridge in the late colonial period, with the Bình Tây market in the background

This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

Though now little more than a rat-infested sewer, the former canal Bonard was once a busy waterway which made an immense contribution to the economic prosperity of Chợ Lớn. As work begins to restore this sole surviving inner-city canal to its former glory, we take a look at its history.

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The easternmost section of the canal Bonard existed before 1874

A map of Chợ Lớn dated 1874 suggests that the easternmost section of the canal Bonard was dug at an early date as a branch of the Quới Đước creek, perhaps by the French Navy as part of a network of military waterways in the west of the city.

However, by the 1880s, with water traffic on the increase and the upper reaches of the Lò Gốm creek becoming silted up, the authorities realised the need to extend the canal westward.

In November 1888, 17 hectares of land was granted to the Chợ Lớn Municipal Council to turn the existing waterway into a 1.5km canal connecting the Quới Đước and southern Lò Gốm creeks. This was followed in June 1889 by an Ordinance instructing the Council to commence work on the canal, the quays alongside it and the roads leading up to them. The project also included the construction of a 55,000m³ boat-building basin (the bassin de Lanessan) containing “dry docks for the repair and construction of junks.”

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The completed canal Bonard and the bassin de Lanessan boat repair and construction yard are depicted on this 1893 map of western Chợ Lớn

However due to finance and land clearance issues, the project suffered significant delays and the canal was not completed until 1893.

Although the name canal Bonard was chosen at the outset of the project, it was decided in 1893 to change the name to canal Fourès, in honour of Lieutenant Governor Augustin Julien Fourès (21 May 1889–9 Aug 1889, 11 Sep 1892–25 Mar 1894), who championed the project and pushed it through to fruition.

However, it seems that his contribution was quickly forgotten, since by 1907 the canal had reverted to its original name, canal Bonard.

To add to the confusion, it also seems to have been known throughout the colonial period by the alternative name “canal de la Distillerie,” in reference to the Distillerie de Cholon, a large rice alcohol factory which opened next to the waterway in 1892.

COCHINCHINE - CHOLON - Le Canal Fourès

The “canal Fourès” – the name by which the canal Bonard was known until the early 20th century

By the early 20th century, five large road bridges had been constructed over the canal Bonard, carrying the rue de Minh-Phung (modern Minh Phụng), the rue Danel (after 1928 a joint rail-tramway bridge, now Phạm Đình Hổ), the rue de Palikao (modern Ngô Nhân Tịnh) and the rue de Go-Cong (now Gò Công) respectively.

However, perhaps the canal’s best-known bridge was the one which spanned its easternmost end at the “T junction” with the Quới Đước creek. This was the famous Pont des trois arches (Three-arch bridge), a pedestrian structure built in the 1920s by the Société d’exploitation des établissements Brossard et Mopin, and reportedly funded by nationalist journalist Nguyễn Văn Sâm and his wife, the younger sister of Chợ Lớn businessman Trương Văn Bền. In 1958, this unusual bridge was used as the backdrop for the murder scene in Joseph L Mankiewicz’s 1958 film version of Graham Greene’s The Quiet American. It survived until the late 1990s.

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Quách Đàm (郭琰 Guō Yǎn), family photograph reproduced by courtesy of his great grandson, Mr Harrison W Lau

It was during the 1920s that the canal Bonard really came into its own. By that time, the old Chợ Lớn Central Market (located on the site of today’s Chợ Lớn Post Office) had become too small to cope with the number of traders. The filling of Chợ Lớn’s inner-city waterways in 1923-1926 hastened its demise by making it impossible for ship-owning merchants to access the market by boat.

Significantly, the canal Bonard and the lower section of the Quới Đước creek which connected it to the Bến Nghé creek were the only inner-city waterways to be excluded from the government’s 1923 waterway-filling scheme. Recognising how crucial it was to guarantee the merchants waterway access to the city market, wealthy businessman and philanthropist Quách Đàm (Guō Yǎn, 郭琰, 1863-1927) offered to pay for the construction of a brand new market on the north bank of the canal Bonard, where he owned large tracts of land.

The site he chose was the bassin de Lanessan, which had to be filled before construction began in 1926. The Bình Tây Market opened to the public in September 1928.

Saigon Slums 1963 - Rạch Bãi Sậy (kinh Hàng Bàng) phía sau Chợ Bình Tây

“Saigon slums 1963” (unknown photographer)

Known after 1955 as the Hàng Bàng (or Bãi Sậy) canal, the old canal Bonard remained one of the city’s busiest waterways until the mid 1960s, when war began to impact negatively on agricultural production in the Mekong Delta. By the end of that decade, the canal had fallen into disuse and temporary housing had been built along its banks, turning it into an open sewer.

In 2000, the western section of the canal from the Lò Gốm creek to Ngô Nhân Tịnh street was filled and houses were built over it. Today, all that remains is the severely-polluted eastern section, connected to the Bến Nghé creek by the Quới Đước creek.

In 2015, work began on a US$100 million project to reinstate this historic canal in its entirety, with the aims of reducing environmental pollution, improving public health and reducing chronic flooding. Temporary housing will be relocated and the quaysides – which still contain a number of important heritage buildings – will be landscaped for both visitors and residents to enjoy.

See also The lost inner-city waterways of Saigon and Cho Lon – Part 2: Cho Lon

7 Canal Bonard viewed from the Palikao bridge

The Canal Bonard viewed from the Gò Công Bridge in the 1930s

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The loading area at the rear of the Bình Tây Market in the 1940s

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An aerial view of the canal Bonard in the 1940s

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Another view of the Canal Bonard in the late colonial period

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The Pont des trois arches (Three-arch bridge), which spanned the junction of the canal Bonard with the Quới Đước creek

12 CHOLON - Un Arroyo - Rạch Bãi Sậy nơi cầu 3 Cẳng

A late colonial era view of the canal Bonard looking through the Pont des trois arches (Three-arch bridge)

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The Pont des trois arches was used as a location for the murder scene in Joseph L Mankiewicz’s 1958 film version of Graham Greene’s The Quiet American

18 Saigon 1965-66 - Kinh Quới Đước

The Quới Đước creek, which connects the Hàng Bàng canal (formerly the canal Bonard) with the main Tàu Hú (Bến Nghé) creek, pictured in 1965 (unknown photographer)

20 SAIGON 1965-66 Rạch Bãi Sậy James Kidd Collection - Vietnam Center and Archive

The Hàng Bàng canal (formerly the canal Bonard) pictured in 1965 (James Kidd Collection, Vietnam Center and Archive)

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The Hàng Bàng canal (formerly the canal Bonard) today

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The Hàng Bàng canal (formerly the canal Bonard) today

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

The Conquest and Settlement of Cochinchina in “Les Colonies Francaises,” 1889

Cochinchine Vers Cholon, le matin PLANTÉ N°10 ILL Fréquenez TB i

Planté, Cochinchine: Vers Cholon, le matin (undated)

Published in 1889 by the Colonies Administration of the French Naval Ministry, Les colonies françaises: notices illustrées by Louis Henrique contains detailed information on early colonial Saigon. This excerpt describes the historical background to the establishment of French Cochinchina.

CONQUEST BY ANNAM. Lower Cochinchina was once part of the Khmer kingdom known as Cambodia; it was annexed in 1658 by Annam, and its ancient history is so intertwined with that of the Annamite kingdom, that only from 1859, the epoque in which it fell into our possession, did it have its own particular history. Nevertheless, it is useful to say a few words about the policy followed by the court of Hue to establish its domination over these provinces.

It is interesting that, from the 17th century, Annam proceeded just as France would do two centuries later: the work of conquest was begun at the river mouths, and continued with the annexation of the tributaries of the Mekong.

Trinh Hoai Duc

Nguyễn dynasty mandarin Trịnh Hoài Đức (1765-1825)

The mandarin Trinh-Hoai-Duc, writing in 1830, has left us the story of this conquest. Having little confidence in the submission of the Chinese colony and obedience of the Cambodian population, the Annamite government formed an administration recruited entirely from among the literati of Hue; then it ordered that vagrants and other vagabonds be picked up and transported to the new provinces.

Arable lands were carefully surveyed and registered, and properties were assigned to each settler; it was stated, moreover, that the Chinese would be fully assimilated with the Annamites.

This first wave of colonisation spread only through the three eastern provinces; it was only in 1720 that the Annamites seized the other three.

In 1800, new efforts were made to complete the colonisation, which had been halted by the revolt of the Tay-Son, the struggle for the establishment of the Nguyen dynasty, the uprisings in Cambodia and the war with Siam. The results that we have seen, and the resistance that we have had to overcome, are the best praise we can give the organising genius of the Annamite sovereign, Gia-Long.

In order to bring order to a population recruited from the slums and mixed with hostile elements, the following measures were decided: each settler was entitled to take as much land as he could cultivate; the mandarins then declared him the owner of the land which he fertilised; tax was proportionate to the products harvested and could be paid either in cash or in kind, at the choice of the settler; the Annamite Code [Vietnamese law] was applied in all its parts; and the calendar and the measures of the Chinese were also imposed. These institutions have so penetrated the usages of the people that they still exist today, alongside ours (see volumes on Annam and Tonkin).

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A late 19th century French missionary’s residence near Huế

EARLY RELATIONS WITH FRANCE. If the conquest of Cochinchina by French arms dates back only 30 years, a great deal of time has passed since our missionaries first sought to bring European civilisation to these lands. According to M Louvet, the first French missionary to visit the Mekong Delta was Father Georges de La Mothe of the Order of St Dominic; he arrived in these regions in 1585, accompanied by Father Fonseca, a Portuguese national. They were very well received by the king of Cambodia, then ruler of the whole of Cochinchina; however, unfortunately for them, he conducted them to his capital. Soon after, the Siamese invaded the country. Father Fonseca was murdered in the church where he was celebrating mass; Father La Mothe, more happily, was able to flee aboard a Spanish ship, but he was covered with wounds and died before reaching Malacca.

Later, the missionaries had to struggle, not only against the persecution of pagans, but also against the jealousy of other missionaries, including the Portuguese, who, all too often forgetting the principles of Christian charity, staked everything to promote the political and commercial interests of their nation. It was this hostility which led to the creation of the Paris Foreign Missions Society, the history of which is both curious and interesting in all respects.

However, the efforts of the Portuguese were at first crowned with great success; in Lower Cochinchina, in Cambodia and throughout Annam, as in the islands of Malaya, Christianity was known only as the “religion of the Portuguese.” If this state of affairs has now changed, it is due to the energy and perseverance of a French prelate who holds a special place in the history of both Annam in general and French Cochinchina in particular.

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Portrait of Pierre Joseph Georges Pigneau de Béhaine (1741-1798) in France, 1787, by Maupérin (Paris Foreign Missions Society)

THE BISHOP OF ADRAN. Pigneau de Béhaine (for this is the name of the man that we must keep in our memory) was born in 1741 near Laon, into a rich family, influential, distinguished by its alliances. Although he could have aspired to the great offices of state, he had but one desire, one ambition – to impart the word of Christ and spread the Christian faith in the most remote regions of the Far East. Barely 24 years old, he arrived at Cam-Cao, now Ha-Tien, which then belonged to the kingdom of Siam. His mission was troubled by war and persecution; the Catholics of Ha-Tien had to take refuge in Pondicherry. As a reward for his apostolic zeal, he was consecrated in Madras as the Bishop of Adran, a title which he carried for a quarter of a century.

Returning to Cam-Cao at a time when the whole of Indo-China was ravaged by bloody wars, he went to establish his residence at the place where today the city of Saigon is located.

At this time, Nguyen-Anh, who later became emperor of Annam under the name Gia-Long, was still struggling with alternate successes and setbacks. Pigneau de Béhaine had occasion to render important services to this prince, who was very popular in Cochinchina and had the good fortune to avoid the pursuits of his enemies, at the moment when his star seemed to have abandoned him. As a result, Nguyen-Anh conceived a friendship for the prelate which was as profound as it was durable.

One day of trouble, he requested the bishop to go and ask for the help of France, entrusting him with the care of his son in order that he could take him to the court of King Louis XVI. Pigneau de Béhaine left Indo-China with a heavy heart, as the most serious events were taking place here. He believed, however, that it would be enough to go to Pondicherry, where the young prince could complete his education. After waiting in vain for several years for a response to the request he had made to Versailles, the valiant bishop decided to make the trip to France to plead in person the cause of the heroic monarch, with the help of whom French influence in Indo-China could be established in a sustainable manner.

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Portrait of crown prince Nguyễn Phúc Cảnh in France, 1787, by Maupérin (Paris Foreign Missions Society)

It was only in 1787 that the Bishop of Adran arrived in Paris. The events of the revolution were already getting under way, and at first it seemed that no-one would pay any attention to what was happening in the Far East. But Prince Canh-Dzue was pretty boy; he spoke French with a great deal of charm, and it was with special grace that he wore his national costume, which, along with his hairstyle, resembled that of our women.

The ladies of the court went crazy about him; according to the custom of that time, they adopted a new fashion in honour of the hero of the day, and for a while we lived with nothing but hairstyles à la Chinoise.

THE TREATY OF 1787. Louis XVI could not remain indifferent to the pleas of this attractive young man of royal race, who gave him the assurances of absolute devotion. On 28 November 1787, at Versailles, de Vergenneset de Montmorin signed a treaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, in which “a squadron of 20 French warships, five European regiments and two regiments of colonial troops” would be placed under the command of the king of Cochinchina. Moreover King Louis XVI pledged “to provide, in a few months, the sum of one million dollars (sic) with 500,000 in cash, the rest in saltpetre, cannons, muskets and other military arms.”

For his part, the king of Cochinchina was committed, among other things, “to assign, in perpetuity, the harbour and the territory of Han-Lan (bay of Tourane and peninsula), and the islands adjacent to Fai-Fo [Hội An], in the south, and to Haï-Wen, in the north.” All religious views were declared free.

As in the previous expedition of the Count de Maudave to Madagascar (see the notice on Madagascar), the French government entrusted the governor of French India with responsibility for meeting the commitments it had made, and once again, these commitments were not met. The Bishop of Adran invoked the formal orders of the king, but the Governor, Count de Conway, opposed the demands.

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Rigault de Genouilly’s flagship the Ville de Paris in 1853 (engraving by Lebreton)

Unable to get anything from the governor, the bishop spoke directly to the settlers in Pondicherry, making them understand that it was in their interests to extend French influence in Indo-China and appealing to their patriotism so that the signature of the king of France was not ignored.

Pigneau was energetic and persevering, and his word was finally heard. In 1790, he arrived in Saigon with two ships loaded with weapons and ammunition, crewed by a team of active and dedicated officers, who proceeded to reorganise the Annamite army and fleet, and to fortify Hue, Saigon, My-Tho and several other places.

These officers were:
● J B Chaigneau, known to the Annamites under the names Nguyen-Van-Tang and Chu-Tau-Long (Commander Long); he commanded the Dragon volant.
● De Forçant, who was called Nguyen-Van-Chan and Chu-Tau-Phung (Commander Phung); he commanded the Aigle. He died in 1809.
● Philippe Vannier or Le-Van-Lang; he successively commanded the ships Bong-Thua and Dong-Nai, and then the Phénix.
These officers were successively joined by several other intrepid companions:
● Jean-Marie Dayot, head of a naval division of two Annamite ships, the Dong-Nai and the Prince de Cochinchine.
● Victor Ollivier (Ong-Tin), engineer officer in charge of the organisation of infantry, artillery and fortifications. He died on 22 March 1799 in Malacca, where he had been sent by Gia-Long for health reasons.

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King Gia Long (reigned 1802-1820), born Nguyễn Phúc Ánh

● Théodore Le Brun, fortifications engineer.
● Lauront Barizy, lieutenant-colonel.
● Julien Girard de l’Isle-Sellé, captain.
● J M Despiaux, physician to King Gia-Long.
● Louis Guillon, lieutenant.
● Jean Guilloux, lieutenant.
(from Pétrus Ký, Histoire Annamite)

The events which occurred in France at that time completely diverted attention away from Cochinchina, where Gia-Long definitively established his power. Indisputably displacing the Le dynasty, he became actively engaged in public works, changes in legislation and the administrative organisation of Annam; His work can be compared to that of the greatest European monarchs.

For the remainder of the bishop of Adran’s life, Gia-Long lavished on him evidence of a lively and sincere friendship. When the bishop died on 9 October 1798, the king sent a beautiful coffin and rich silk fabrics in which to wrap the body. For two whole months, the coffin remained exposed for public veneration in the episcopal residence, which was located not far from the spot where the gunpowder magazine now stands.

The king himself presided at the funeral ceremony, which took place amidst great pomp on 16 December 1798.

The coffin, wrapped in beautiful silk fabric, was placed on a stretcher carried by 80 men and covered with a canopy embroidered with gold. The guard of honour was provided by the entire king’s guard, comprising more than 12,000 men. Overall, the procession included 40,000 people and 120 elephants armed for war and decorated with lavish ornaments. When they arrived at the place which the bishop had chosen for his burial, the king himself delivered the funeral oration.

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The Mausoleum of Pigneau de Béhaine, Bishop of Adran in Saigon (demolished in 1983)

A magnificent mausoleum was erected to his memory, entrusted to a royal guard of 30 men which was to be maintained in perpetuity.

The tomb of the bishop of Adran still exists today, and since we took possession of this land, it has been declared a historic monument.

VIOLATION OF THE PROVISIONS OF THE TREATY. During his reign, Gia-Long had been the protector and friend of Europeans. However, he was alarmed by the progress of the English in India, and before he died in 1820, he recommended actions against the Europeans to his son and successor Minh-Mang.

These actions were followed only too well. In 1824, the French, old friends of Gia-Long, were expelled. In the following year, Minh-Mang refused to receive the captain of the Bougainville. Then in 1847, during the reign of Thieu-Tri, the frigate Gloire captained by Lapierre, and the corvette Victorieuse under the command of Rigault de Genouilly, destroyed five Annamite ships in the Bay of Tourane, which had intended to attack them.

During the reign of Tu-Duc, persecution against the missionaries was intensified. In 1851, the French missionaries Schœffler and Bonnard were massacred on the king’s orders. In 1852, France lodged a formal complaint, but this was ignored, and in response, the corvette Catinat destroyed one of the forts of Tourane.

In 1857, following the arrest and execution of the Spanish bishop Diaz in Tonkin, France and Spain came to an agreement to obtain redress for the violence committed against their nationals and against the Christians of Annam, which at that time were estimated to number over 600,000.

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Admiral Pierre-Louis-Charles Rigault de Genouilly (1807-1873)

EXPEDITION OF 1858. On 31 August 1858, a Franco-Spanish expedition commanded by Admiral Rigault de Genouilly and the Spanish Colonel Langerote arrived in Tourane [Đà Nẵng], took the forts and settled on the peninsula which forms the boundary to the harbour entrance. They held it despite Annamite efforts to chase them away.

The bishop of Annam, Monsignor Pellerin, urged the admiral to march on Hue, but our ships could not enter the river because of the obstructions placed there by the Annamites, and the disease which was then wreaking havoc amongst the expeditionary force. For these reasons, the admiral decided to strike a blow elsewhere.

On 2 February 1859, leaving the captain of the Toyon in Tourane, Rigault de Genouilly left this port at the head of a naval division and headed for Saigon. On the morning of 10 February, the two forts which defended the inner anchorage of Cap Saint-Jacques [Vũng Tàu] were destroyed. On 11 February, the squadron sailed up the Dong-Nai river, setting Can-Gio Fort on fire.

From 11-15 February, they disabled and subsequently destroyed the forts of Ong-Gia, Cha-La, Tay-Ray and Tang-Ki. On the evening of 15 February, they arrived in Saigon.

CAPTURE OF SAIGON. Saigon was defended in the south by two forts built in the European style and in the north by a large citadel. Hardly had our squadron come into sight when the guns of the two southern forts opened fire. One fort was immediately silenced; the other, much better armed, could not be attacked until the following day. The one on the right bank was dismantled, while the one on the left bank (the Fort du Sud) was occupied to serve as a support installation for our transport and convoy ships.

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A Saigon port map of 1863, showing the location of the Citadel

All that remained was the Citadel, a square shaped structure situated 800m from the forts. Its walls, which had a combined length of 478m, were surrounded by a wide and deep moat. Four large bastions defended the corners, and in the centre of each of the four walls was a gate which opened onto a stone bridge. The citadel was surrounded on all sides by woods, gardens and houses. At 1700 hours, following a reconnaissance made by commander Jauréguiberry, the squadron commenced its bombardment. At first, the occupants of the Citadel responded vigorously, but their fire soon slowed as a result of the accuracy of our shooting. The assault columns landed and took up positions in the surrounding houses. The fire of our sharpshooters was successful; struck from all directions, the enemy abandoned its guns. Our troops, headed by marine infantry sergeant Henri de Pallières, rushed to the assault.

Capturing Saigon made us masters of considerable materiel: 200 guns of iron or bronze; a corvette; eight war junks still under construction; 20,000 swords, spears, rifles and pistols; 85,000kg of gunpowder; huge quantities of cartridges, rockets, projectiles, pig lead, and other military equipment; enough rice to feed 7,000-8,000 men for a year; and a box containing 130,000 francs.

CONQUEST OF THE PROVINCES. In April and May 1859, Admiral Rigault de Genouilly continued his offensive operations. Returning to Tourane, he defeated the Annamites, and, on 7-8 May, he took the entrenched camp of Kien-San, which commanded the road to Hue.

However, the war in Italy, and later the China expedition, obliged us momentarily to abandon the conquest of Lower Cochinchina. On 1 November 1859, Admiral Rigault de Genouilly, recalled to France at his own request, was replaced by Admiral Page.

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French ships in Tourane harbour, 1858

Our low numbers forced us to evacuate Tourane on 23 March 1860, so that we could concentrate on Saigon.

The court of Hue announced our evacuation of Tourane as a brilliant victory. The king issued a proclamation announcing to his people that he had driven out the barbarians. “They are gone,” he said, “these terrible, greedy creatures who have no inspiration other than doing evil, no purpose other than making filthy lucre. They have disappeared, these pirates who feed on human flesh and make clothes from the skin of the poor unfortunates they have eaten! Put to flight by our soldiers, they are shamefully saved from our retribution!”

Soon after this, Admiral Page was sent to China, leaving in Saigon a garrison of 800 men, including 200 Spaniards and a small fleet of two corvettes and four smaller sailing ships. The command was given to Captain d’Ariès, with the Spanish Colonel Palanca Guttierez as his deputy. During this period, Commander d’Ariès consolidated his control over Saigon and Cholon, connecting the two cities with a series of rural fortifications, each protected by 30 rifles and 80 howitzers.

Meanwhile, the enemy was not idle. Taking advantage of our numerical weakness, the Annamites built the defensive lines of Ky-Hoa, 4 kilometres north of Saigon. In this way, they dominated the roads to Cambodia, My-Tho, Hue and the upper reaches of the Dong-Nai river. They blocked our little garrison to the point where it remained for almost six months without news from outside. The Annamites even launched a direct attack on our garrison on the night of 3-4 July. They were driven back and did not dare to attack us again, but they repeatedly approached our positions.

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A map of the Battle of Ky-Hoa, 1861

The end of the China campaign allowed us to resume the hostilities with vigour. On 6 February 1861, Admiral Charner arrived with a naval division and an expeditionary force of 3,000 to 4,000 men, including 230 Spaniards and an indigenous company formed in Tourane, composed of Christians who had embraced our cause.

The first objective of admiral Charner was the removal of the lines of Ky-Hoa, an operation that he undertook with great success on 25 February. The Annamites took flight; they had lost over 1,000 men, killed or wounded. Our losses were also severe; 225 of our men had been put out of action, including 12 killed. Among these were Commanders Foucault and Rodellec-Duporzic, Ensign Berger, and Midshipmen Noël and Frostin. Lieutenant-Colonel Testard of the Marine Infantry was hit in the head and shoulder. Ensign Johaneau-Lareynière and the Spaniards Jean Lavizeruz and Barnabé Fovella died as a result of their injuries.

When Lareynière fell, several friends came to offer him help. His response was heroic, worthy of that of Walhubert at Austerlitz: “Go back to your station,” he said to one of them, “and write to my family telling them that I died bravely.” In Sparta or Rome, these words would have been carved on a monument. France, oblivious of his glories, continues to ignore these words of its unknown hero.

The destruction of the lines of Ky-Hoa was followed by the conquest of Tong-Keou, Hoc-Mon, Brach-Tra and Trang-Bang. Meanwhile, Admiral Page ascended the Dong-Nai river, destroyed the forts and landing stages, and dispersed 15,000 men who were defending its course. Saigon was delivered, and the province of Gia-Dinh conquered. “The expeditionary army, in the space of a fortnight, had fought five battles, undertaken 12 reconnaissances, and marched under a brazen sky, despite the deadly climate and the fact that biscuit rations and water were often spoiled and our soldiers were kept awake every night by the poisonous bites of mosquitoes and fire ants.” (L Pallu)

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Admiral Louis-Adolphe Bonard (1805-1867)

Taking the arroyo de la Poste, which leads from My-Tho into Cambodia, cost the life of Captain Bourdais. After the enemy had withdrawn, Admiral Page’s fleet arrived at My-Tho on 12 April. The rainy season started and our troops were sent to their quarters.

On 29 November, Admiral Charner left for France, leaving the command to Admiral Bonard. In the following month, the latter seized Bien-Hoa and Baria. With the northern regions of our new possession now quiet, Admiral Bonard turned southward against Vinh-Long, a fortress located on the Mekong. It was taken on 23 March by Lieutenant Colonel Reboul, supported by the fleet.

Despite their small numbers, our forces had to keep possession of a very large tract of country. Many isolated posts were attacked frequently by the rebels, whose audacity was great. On 6 April 1862, insurgents from Tan-Long launched a surprise attack on Saigon, between the arroyo and the fort of Cai Mai. Around 50 huts were burned, a French position compromised, and for a moment we feared for our artillery stores.

The river of Hue, which bore rice to the capital of Annam, was blocked; Emperor Tu Duc, who was fighting a revolt in Tonkin, sued for peace, and a treaty was signed on 5 June 1862 in Saigon. This treaty, concluded between France and Spain on the one hand and Annam on the other, contained the following major provisions:

(i) The subjects of the two nations of France and Spain may practice Christian worship in the kingdom of Annam, and the subjects of this realm, without distinction, who wish to embrace the Christian religion, may also do so freely and without coercion; but those who do not have the desire to become Christians will not be forced to do so.

Vua_Tu_Duc

King Tự Đức (reigned 1847-1883)

(ii) The three complete provinces of Bien-Hoa, Gia-Dinh (Saigon) and Dinh-Tuong (My Tho) and the island of Poulo-Condore are ceded fully and in all sovereignty to France; in addition, French traders may trade freely and move their ships wherever they wish in the great river of Cambodia and in the arms of that river; it will be the same for the French warships sent to carry out surveillance in the same river and its tributaries.

(iii) The king of Annam shall pay as compensation, within a period of 10 years, the sum of four million dollars (the kingdom of Annam having no dollars, the latter was represented by 72 hundredths of a tael).

In addition, the Vinh-Long citadel was to be “rendered to the king of Annam as soon as he had ended the rebellion that exists, by his orders, in the provinces of Gia-Dinh and Dinh-Tuong.”

After this act had been signed, Tu-Duc sought to escape its terms by every manner: the persecution against Christians continued by devious means in Cochinchina; access to ports remained banned, and, by covert means, the subjects of provinces ceded to France were pushed into rebellion against us. By December 1863, an uprising led by the mandarin Quan-Dinh had become very widespread; but with reinforcements requested from Manila and our China Seas naval division, Admiral Bonard managed to suppress it. That done, the treaty of 5 June 1862 was ratified on 14 April 1863 in Hue.

It was at this juncture that Spanish troops left the colony, where they had remained with us for five years, showing great bravery and proving themselves to be worthy heirs of their country’s military glory. The descendants of Rocroi and Saragosse, this time fighting for the same cause, had learned to respect each other.

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Nguyễn dynasty mandarin Phan Thanh Giản (1796-1867)

Annam had not yet abandoned hope that we could be persuaded to give up our conquest. For this purpose, an embassy headed by Phan-Than-Gian was sent to Paris. Embarking on 16 July for France, the king’s plenipotentiary envoy requested the return of the three eastern provinces in exchange for financial compensation.

At this time, opinions in France were divided on the question of whether or not to keep our new colony. Public opinion, already excited by the case of Mexico, was increasingly concerned about the dangers of distant expeditions. Opponents of the Cochinchina project had sufficient influence to push for a new treaty to be signed, turning the occupation into a mere protectorate, and leaving us just a few places – Saigon, My Tho, Thu-Dau-Mot and Cholon – connected by military roads.

Fortunately, several competent characters – the Marquis of Chasseloup-Laubat, Minister of Marine, M Duruy, Minister of Public Education, Admiral Rigault de Genouilly, Senator Baron Brenier, and, in opposition, Thiers and Lambrecht – moved to save our nascent colony. A counter-order was sent and we kept Cochinchina.

Having failed in its attempt to obtain the surrender of the three conquered provinces, the court of Hue did everything possible to make our occupation difficult and costly. It hoped that, tired of the constant sacrifices, we would eventually give up and leave the country. The mandarins of the three western provinces, which remained under the rule of Tu-Duc, continually excited partial revolts on the left bank of the Mekong, and in Cambodia, which became our protectorate by the Treaty of 11 August 1863. Before 1867, our efforts to repress these revolts were ineffective, because the rebels dispersed by our troops immediately took refuge in the lands which were still ruled by Tu-Duc, the real instigator of all these troubles.

Eventually, the intrigues of the Annamite monarch were punished. The sedition he excited in Cambodia and the insurrection he fomented in the north of our possessions were repressed vigorously by Colonel Reboul, Lieutenant Colonel Marchaisse (killed during the uprising), Captain Savin de Larclauze, and Commanders Alleyron, Brière de l’Isle and Domange.

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Admiral Pierre-Paul de La Grandière (1807-1876)

Admiral de la Grandière, Governor of Cochinchina, had frequently expressed concern that our colony lacked natural borders, and that the western provinces, which remained Annamite, were serious trouble spots. The most recent events proved that he was right, and as a result, the admiral was allowed to bring these provinces into our possession. An expedition was organised in the greatest secrecy, and from 20-24 June 1867, our troops occupied Vinh-Long, Sa-Dec, Chau-Doc and Ha-Tien, without encountering any resistance.

Phan-Than-Gian, the former envoy of Tu Duc in Paris who was the governor of these provinces, ordered the mandarins to submit, in order to avoid unnecessary bloodshed. Then, refusing the generous offers of Admiral de la Grandière, he poisoned himself, thus becoming a noble victim of the political cunning of the king that he was powerless to avert.

INSURRECTIONS. After the conquest of the three western provinces, the first insurrection which we had to overcome was that of the Plain of Reeds, fomented by an able leader named Tien-Bo. Entrenched in a position he believed to be impregnable, he was flushed out by a column of 400 men, composed largely of native sharpshooters. This failure did not discourage a Cambodian named Por-Kom-Bo, who escaped from Saigon where he had been interned and raised the standard of revolt in Tay-Ninh province.

He believed that all Cambodia would answer his call to protest against the subordinate position accepted by King Norodom; but no one moved, and it only took a little sortie by our Tay-Ninh garrison to put the insurgents to rout. Por-Kom-Bo took refuge in the mountains, where he found new strength among savage tribes and briefly captured the Cambodian ruler, who was only released by troops sent by the governor of Cochinchina.

The Annamite mandarins could not bring themselves to accept the fait accompli. The sons of Phan-Than-Gian, disregarding the wise advice given to them by their father on his death-bed, placed themselves at the head of an insurrectional movement centred on the city of Chau-Doc.

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Vietnamese riflemen undergoing training in Saigon

On 30 November 1867, young soldiers of the Marine Infantry commanded by Sergeant Monnier, occupied a small bamboo blockhouse in My-Tho. Suddenly, 1,000 Annamites rushed upon them with loud cries.

The small garrison just had enough time to close the doors, and answered with heavy fire, which put the attackers to flight. However, they returned during the night and set fire to the blockhouse, rendering the position untenable; Sergeant Monnier formed his men into a small squad and rushed at the attackers with fixed bayonets, inflicting many casualties on their enemies.

On the night of 16 June 1868, the rebels attacked the post of Rach-Gia. Entering through a gate which was still under construction, they massacred our sleeping soldiers. The head of the post and a few of his men just had time to seize their arms and they fought like lions, but eventually succumbed to the enemy’s superior numbers. Just one of our soldiers escaped, and thanks to his directions, we were able to launch strong and swift reprisals.

Since that time, there have been only local insurgencies, occurring almost every year at around harvest time, and suppressed easily by our indigenous militias. Overall, Cochinchina has accepted our domination with good grace. Here we have not had to deal with revolts for independence like those of Algeria, which have been made even more formidable by explosions of religious fanaticism. The Buddhist does not, like the Muslim, live in horror of the Christian; neither does he give him offensive nicknames like giaour (dog), a word which the Arabs use so often.

Ernest_Doudart_de_Lagree

Commander Ernest Doudart de Lagrée (1823-1868)

While we were struggling to consolidate our domination, we did not lose sight of our great economic and scientific interests. An expedition led by Commander Doudart de Lagrée, assisted by Lieutenants Francis Garnier and Delaporte, was charged with exploring the upper Mekong. The mission penetrated as far as Yunnan, where Lagrée died, exhausted by fatigue. Francis Garnier then took command and brought the mission back to Saigon, after a journey of nearly 10,000km, including 6,000km on water. They had the good fortune to observe the total eclipse of 18 August 1868, in a previously inaccessible and unknown region.

The war of 1870 [the Franco-Prussian War] was announced on 6 August to the governor, Admiral de Cornulier-Lucinière. Three days earlier, a German who had arrived on an English steamer warned the Prussian Consul, and several German ships withdrew hastily from Saigon. The admiral immediately fortified the entrance of the Soirap and armed the Juno in order to protect the approaches to Saigon against incursions by enemy ships. He also raised the alarm about a possible attack from the court of Hue and declared martial law in the colony.

The Third Republic was proclaimed in Saigon on 21 October 1870. Following our reverses, the court of Hue, always kept fully informed of our embarrassments, thought this the right moment to make new proposals for the redemption of the ceded provinces. However, they took no action and our colony followed its normal development.

It was Admiral de la Grandière who had the honour of consolidating our conquest in such a powerful way that subsequent insurgencies were, so to speak, no more than insignificant clashes.

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Charles Le Myre de Vilers (1833-1918), photo by ANOM

CIVIL REGIME. The arrival of Governor Charles Le Myre de Vilers on 7 July 1879 marked a new era in Cochinchina, the era of civilian rule. It was under Le Myre de Vilers’ government that the first Deputy of Cochinchina, Saigon Mayor Jules Blancsubé, was elected. Charles Thomson succeeded Le Myre de Vilers.

On 17 June 1884, during the governorship of Charles Thomson, the Convention of Phnom Penh was concluded between the French government and King Norodom. This treaty placed the protectorate of Cambodia under more direct and effective French administrative supervision. The protectorate was controlled by a Resident General, under the control of the Governor of Cochinchina. More recently, a decree replaced the Resident General of Cambodia by a Resident Superior.

After a long interim under General Bégin, Charles Thomson was replaced in 1886 by Ange-Michel Filippini. Sadly, M Filippini died in Saigon in November 1887, in the exercise of his functions.

UNION OF INDOCHINA. The decrees of October 1887 established the Indo-Chinese Union, which brought the colony of Cochinchina and the protectorates of Cambodia, Tonkin and Annam together under the authority of a single official: the Governor General of Indo-China.

In November 1887, Ernest Constans, returning from his ambassadorship in China, during which he had negotiated a new treaty of commerce with the court of Peking, accepted the post of Governor General of Indo-China on a temporary basis. After visiting not only Cochinchina and Cambodia, but also Annam and Tonkin, M Constans returned to France. He was replaced as Governor General by Étienne Richaud, who was already Resident General of Annam and Tonkin. In May 1889, M Richaud in turn was replaced as Governor General by Jules Piquet, Governor of French India.

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Dong Nai Forestry Tramway

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Many thanks to Michael Pass and his colleagues Eric Fresné, Rob Dickinson, Iain Hutchinson, Helmut Dahlhaus, Claus Gaertner, Martin Murray, John Raby, Geoff Coward, Ray Schofield, Alan Brown and Chris Yapp for identifying this as one of the two CFTD Borsig 0-6-0T locomotives

Commercial exploitation of the forests was an economic priority for the Cochinchina government, and in the early 20th century, several private tramway lines were established to facilitate this work. Perhaps the best known was the Đồng Nai Forestry Tramway, set up in 1911 serve the Biên Hòa industrielle et forestière company (BIF).

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A forestry exploitation in Cochinchina

In October 1910, the Biên Hòa industrielle et forestière (BIF) company (established in 1908) signed a contract with the Cochinchina authorities to exploit 30,000 hectares of forest in Đồng Nai Province.

As part of the contract, they undertook to build a 21.9km branch line to transport wood and other forest products from its main logging camp at Bến Nôm to Trảng Bom on the Sài Gòn–Nha Trang line.

In the following year the company also opened a lime acetate factory at Tân Mai, connected to the main line by a 0.5km rail spur.

The Compagnie française des tramways du Donnaï (French Tramway Company of Đồng Nai, CFTD) was set up by BIF in 1911 to run both of these lines.

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A 0.5km spur off the main line east of Biên Hòa Station led into BIF’s Tân Mai lime acetate factory

Conceived from the outset as a 1m-gauge line in order that its wagons could continue their journey from Trảng Bom to Sài Gòn on CFI metals, the Đồng Nai tramway incorporated four short forestry spurs with a combined length of 3.144km. Construction took two years and the branch opened in late 1913.

Three years later, in order to accommodate the construction of a larger and better-equipped interchange between the branch and the main line, the colonial authorities agreed to relocate Trảng Bom Station nearly 2km to the west of its original position.

The post-World War I economic recession hit both BIF and CFTD badly, and in 1922, the latter attempted unsuccessfully to persuade the authorities to buy back the tramway franchise.

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Plans for the relocated Trảng Bom Station (1916) where the tramway met the main line

An inventory of rolling stock undertaken at this time revealed that the company owned four locomotives. These were two Borsig 0-6-0Ts, “Bienhoa No. 1” and “Bienhoa No. 2,” each weighing 23 tons; a 14-ton Ateliers de Tubize (Belgium) locomotive; and a 5.3-ton Decauville locomotive named “Bébé,” which was used exclusively in the acetate factory at Tân Mai.

The Đồng Nai tramway underwent comprehensive refurbishment in 1925-1926, and although its later history is poorly documented, the line is known to have continued in operation for at least another four decades.

Never a profitable concern, BIF was hit badly by the Great Depression, and in 1939 it was split into two companies, Les Caoutchoucs du Donnaï (Đồng Nai Rubber) and Forêts et scieries de Biên Hòa (Forests and Sawmills of Biên Hòa). The tramway company was incorporated into the latter.

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Mishap on the CFTD line, c 1920, photos by Marcel Auguste Fermé, from “La mystérieuse locomotive de la BIF.” in Les carnets de Bái Lìdé http://bailide.blogspot.com/2009/03/la-mysterieuse-locomotive-de-la-bif.html

In 1958, both companies were purchased by the South Vietnamese authorities, and in subsequent years the Trảng Bom–Bến Nôm branch line was subsumed by the national rail operator, Hỏa xa Việt Nam (HXVN). It continued in operation until at least 1968.

Today no traces of the old line have survived. In the 1970s, most of its former trackbed was transformed into the Đường Trảng Bom.

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The route of the former tramway line superimposed onto a modern Google map

Tim Doling is the author of The Railways and Tramways of Việt Nam (White Lotus Press, Bangkok, 2012) and also gives talks on Việt Nam railway history to visiting groups.

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group Rail Thing – Railways and Tramways of Việt Nam for more information about Việt Nam’s railway and tramway history and all the latest news from Vietnam Railways.

You may also be interested in these articles on the railways and tramways of Việt Nam, Cambodia and Laos:

A Relic of the Steam Railway Age in Da Nang
By Tram to Hoi An
Date with the Wrecking Ball – Vietnam Railways Building
Derailing Saigon’s 1966 Monorail Dream
Full Steam Ahead on Cambodia’s Toll Royal Railway
Goodbye to Steam at Thai Nguyen Steel Works
Ha Noi Tramway Network
How Vietnam’s Railways Looked in 1927
Indochina Railways in 1928
“It Seems that One Network is being Stripped to Re-equip Another” – The Controversial CFI Locomotive Exchange of 1935-1936
Phu Ninh Giang-Cam Giang Tramway
Saigon Tramway Network
Saigon’s Rubber Line
The Changing Faces of Sai Gon Railway Station, 1885-1983
The Langbian Cog Railway
The Long Bien Bridge – “A Misshapen but Essential Component of Ha Noi’s Heritage”
The Lost Railway Works of Truong Thi
The Mysterious Khon Island Portage Railway
The Railway which Became an Aerial Tramway
The Saigon-My Tho Railway Line

 

Icons of Old Saigon – The Eglise Sainte-Marie-Immaculee, 1863

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Inauguration of the cathedral constructed in Saigon by the French government (after a sketch by Naval Lieutenant Dumont)

This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

The Sun Wah Tower at 115 Nguyễn Huệ stands on the site of Saigon’s first Roman Catholic cathedral.

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In 1860 Bishop Lefèbvre set up his first “cathedral” in an abandoned pagoda in the ville basse (lower city)

The earliest French colonial settlers were obliged to celebrate mass in a makeshift church. According to Alfred Schreiner’s Abrégé de l’histoire d’Annam (Short History of Annam, 1906), in 1860 Monsignor Dominique Lefèbvre, Bishop of Isauropolis and Apostolic Vicar of Lower Cochinchina, set up his first “cathedral” in an abandoned pagoda in the ville basse (lower city).

This arrangement continued until 1863, when Admiral-Governor Louis Adolphe Bonard (30 November 1861-1 May 1863) commissioned the construction of the city’s first purpose-built cathedral, the Église Sainte-Marie-Immaculée (Church of Saint Mary of the Immaculate Conception).

The location chosen for the new cathedral was the mid point of rue Charner, right next to the Grand Canal [Nguyễn Huệ boulevard]. According to the journal Moniteur de l’Armée (Army Monitor), it was built to the plans and under the direction of Lieutenant Colonel Paul Coffyn of the Marine Engineering Corps Roads and Bridges Department. Lieutenant Colonel Coffyn was assisted by Captain Blazy. The first stone was laid on 28 March 1863 by Bishop Lefèbvre.

The cathedral took just four months to build and was inaugurated on 26 July 1863 in the presence of Bishop Lefèbvre and Bonard’s successor, Admiral Governor Pierre-Paul de La Grandière (1 May 1863-31 March 1865).

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Admiral Governor Pierre-Paul de La Grandière (1 May 1863-31 March 1865)

The inauguration ceremony was described as follows in Le Monde illustré (Illustrated World) magazine of 19 September 1863:

“Admiral Governor de Lagrandière arranged to surround Bishop Lefèbvre with every imaginable pomp. The Admiral himself appeared at the head of his General Staff in the full uniform of the country, that is to say, with light clothing and pith helmet replacing the thick fabric uniform and leather headdress worn in Europe. Flags and banners marked the passage of the procession, cannon sounded and military music and religious songs were performed by the bands and choirs of our brave sailors.

There are currently few Europeans in Saigon; apart from our troops, they do not exceed 200 or 300; there are also about 8,000 Chinese and 10,000 Annamites, but we can say that not one was missing from this grand celebration.

It created a profound impression, particularly on the local people who were attending for the first time one of the solemn ceremonies of their western allies.

Back home in Paris, this cathedral (of which we have provided a very accurate drawing, see above) would only be regarded as a chapel. But it has a no less monumental aspect, which is even more remarkable as it was built with great intelligence to meet the needs of the hot climate. It is constructed from wood and brick. The windows, with which it is abundantly provided on two floors, are equipped with louvres to optimise air flow.

It was built by Chinese labourers, who as we know are very proficient in all types of manual and mechanical work, under the direction of French engineer officers.

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A review of colonial troops on boulevard Norodom

As for the interior, no attempt was made to provide unnecessary luxury; it is very simple. At the rear is a rose stained-glass window set in an iron frame, which creates a beautiful effect. The high altar is located in a vaulted niche painted in blue with gold stars.

The church can hold 400 people; thus, from what we have said of the French population in Saigon, it is very adequate.”

The magazine also comments:

“We had no intention of creating a lasting monument; that would have taken a lot of time and financial resources which are not yet available to us. But this church will last us 15 to 20 years and can then be replaced by a building which accords with plans for the ‘new Saigon’ [the Coffyn Plan “for a city of 500,000 souls,” drawn up in May 1862].”

It is perhaps just as well that the new cathedral was regarded only as a temporary one, because, according to Schreiner, “it was devoured in less than 10 years by termites…. in 1874 we were obliged to set up a temporary cathedral in the salle des fêtes (events hall) of the former governor’s palace.” This arrangement continued until the inauguration of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in 1880.

Following the demolition of the Église Sainte-Marie-Immaculée in the early 1870s, a new law court housing a Justice de paix (Justice of the Peace) was opened on the same site in May 1875.

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The Justice de paix (Justice of the Peace), opened in 1875

Before the completion of the Palais de Justice de Saïgon in 1885, this served as the main judicial organ of the city, with jurisdiction in both criminal and civil cases, and the boulevard in front of it became a place of execution. Later, the Justice de paix dealt mainly with local administrative applications. After 1954 it became the District 1 court, in which capacity it survived until 1994.

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A map showing the location of the Église Sainte-Marie-Immaculée in 1863. By 1864 the upper half of the Grand Canal, including the area in front of the cathedral, had been filled

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Another photograph of the Justice de paix (Justice of the Peace)

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After 1875 the boulevard in front of the Justice de paix became a place of execution

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Today the Sun Wah Tower stands on the site of the Église Sainte-Marie-Immaculée, Saigon’s first cathedral

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Date with the Wrecking Ball – Saigon Hospital, 125 Le Loi, Late 1930s

A “colorised” image of the the Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie after it became a Municipal Hospital in 1949.

This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

The Saigon Hospital at 125 Lê Lợi was originally built in the late 1930s as the Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie. The French named it after French doctor Théodose Déjean de la Bâtie, who devoted his life to treating members of the Vietnamese community.

Indochina - medicine in 1930s

Indochina – medicine before 1930

While the wealthy Chinese communities set up their own well-appointed hospitals in Chợ Lớn from as early as the 1870s, medical facilities in Saigon during the first half century of colonial rule were provided almost exclusively for the use of European settlers.

During that period, Vietnamese people living in Saigon had to travel to the Chợ Quán Hospital for treatment, or alternatively to visit the tiny Thị Nghè clinic of the Sisters of Saint-Paul de Chartres, which, according to one government report, “compensated, to some extent, for the lack of an Hôpital indigène in Saigon.”

The need to create a hospital “specifically designated for indigenous people” in Saigon was taken up at the turn of the century by Dr Théodose Dejean de la Bâtie (1865-1912).

A former director of Chợ Quán Hospital who developed a pioneering programme to improve standards of maternity care, Dejean de la Bâtie was elected to the Colonial Council in 1900 and lobbied vociferously for the government to provide more civilian doctors for the treatment of local people.

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A CFTI electric tram passes the Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie in the early 1940s

In April 1903, using his own money, Dejean de la Bâtie set up “a clinic on the rue d’Adran [Hồ Tùng Mậu], behind the Justice of Peace,” which offered “free medical and surgical treatment to all Asians who wished to benefit from European medicine.”

Dejean de la Bâtie personally funded the operation of the clinic for nearly two years, but its success nearly bankrupted him, and in 1905 the municipal government took over its operation. In that year, the clinic received subsidies from the Saigon Municipality (1,200 piastres), Chợ Lớn Province (300 piastres) and Gia Định Province (300 piastres).

According to a report of 1905 in the Annuaire général de l’Indo-Chine française, “Although recently founded, this institution has given brilliant results and seems to be destined to be of great service. For the first 12 months of operation, the free consultation room was crowded with 3,151 patients of all nationalities. In total, they came here 15,717 times to ask for bandages or medication, or simply for advice on their health. During this period, Dr Dejean de la Bâtie, assisted by his colleague Dr Flandin, carried out 166 surgical procedures under chloroform, 86 under cocaine and 21 under ethyl chloride. The free healthcare services are provided here by Dr Dejean de la Bâtie, assisted by a European nun, an Annamite nun, an Annamite nurse and a secretary-interpreter.

The Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie after it became a Municipal Hospital in 1949

When Dejean de la Bâtie died unexpectedly in 1912 at the age of just 47, many tributes were paid to the man who had devoted his life to improving standards of medical care for local people.

Speaking in 1930, his former deputy, Dr Georges M L Montel, commented that he “cared too much for his patients and didn’t charge fees… It was only when his clinic became such a major undertaking, and his personal resources were no longer adequate to pay for it, that he consented to hand it over to the municipality. He had a heart of gold. That’s why he died penniless, and his widow, instead of being chauffeured around in a car like so many other ladies, had to be content to live as a modest teacher.”

Two years after his death, the clinic founded by Théodose Dejean de la Bâtie was relocated to a larger building on boulevard Bonard, the site occupied today by the Saigon Hospital. Known initially as the Polyclinique du Marché or the Polyclinique du boulevard Bonard, it was placed under the direction of Dr Georges Montel.

However the demand for medical services by local people continued to grow, prompting Colonial Council member Trương Văn Bền in 1919 to urge the government to build a much larger Hôpital indigene in Saigon in order to cope with the “alarming growth” in the number of local patients.

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Another shot of the Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie after it became a Municipal Hospital in 1949

As annual patient numbers at the Polyclinique du Marché rose from 28,982 in 1922 to 37,957 in 1924 and 45.161 in 1926, the authorities responded by opening smaller clinics at Tân Định (1925) and Khánh Hội (1930),

Finally in 1935, Cochinchina Governor Pierre Pagès (1934-1939) approved plans to rebuild the Polyclinique du Marché as a fully-equipped city hospital.

Constructed and opened in stages between 1937 and 1939, the new hospital cost 185,000 piastres (1,850,000 francs) to build. In February 1938, the Colonial Council decided that it should be named the Polyclinique Dejean de la Bâtie, “in honour of the devoted and selfless philanthropist who was the creator of the municipal polyclinique.”

While most of the funding came from the city government, the Hui-Bon-Hoa family made a sizable donation of 38,000 piastres, securing for themselves the naming rights to the south wing (nearest the market), which became known as the “pavillon Hui-Bon-Hoa.” The north wing was named after Bâtie’s protégée Dr Georges Montel, who had become known in the 1920s for his groundbreaking treatment of leprosy, while other smaller donations were recognised by the naming of individual consulting rooms and operating theatres. A marble plaque was posted in the main entrance lobby, bearing the names of all donors and benefactors who had contributed to the construction.

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The Saigon General Hospital today

In 1949, the Polyclinique became a full-blown Municipal Hospital, with former Emperor Bảo Đại, then head of state of the State of Việt Nam, presiding over the inauguration ceremony on 16 December 1949. After the establishment of the Republic of Việt Nam in 1955, it was renamed the Saigon General Hospital (Bệnh viện Đa khoa Sài Gòn). Since that time it has continued to function as one of the most important hospitals in the city.

However, in recent years the fabric of the building has become badly degraded and in an article of 10 June 2014 in Người Lao Động newspaper, the hospital was described as “seedy, dirty, with inadequate service and bad management.” The same article quoted a leader from the Hồ Chí Minh City Department of Health as saying: “It has all the necessary facilities and a convenient location, but the performance of the Saigon Hospital is very poor….This situation must be resolved. The Department of Health is considering whether the entire hospital personnel should be reorganised or the hospital should be closed completely.”

Since the word on the street is that the land on which the Saigon Hospital stands is already earmarked for redevelopment, we can confidently assume that the old building’s days are numbered.

The inauguration of the former Polyclinique as a Municipal Hospital on 16 December 1949 in the presence of Head of State, former Emperor Bảo Đại

The inauguration of the former Polyclinique as a Municipal Hospital on 16 December 1949 in the presence of Head of State, former Emperor Bảo Đại

The inauguration of the former Polyclinique as a Municipal Hospital on 16 December 1949 in the presence of Head of State, former Emperor Bảo Đại

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Saigon-Souvenir – A 1906 Visitor’s Guide to Saigon

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In 1906, an unknown writer using the pen name L. I. published a small brochure entitled Saïgon-Souvenir, petit guide saigonnais à l’usage des passagers des débutants dans la colonie for first-time visitors to the Cochinchina capital. Here is an English translation.

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Saigon panorama (east): the Post Office, the Arsenal and the Sainte-Enfance, viewed from the towers of the Cathedral

Overall appearance – The city has the shape of an irregular trapezoid, with its sides formed by the Saigon river, the arroyo-Chinois (Bến Nghé creek), the Canal de ceinture (Belt Canal) and the arroyo de l’Avalanche (Thị Nghè creek).

The streets are straight, parallel, and intersect each other at right angles. Many boulevards cut through the city in all directions, connecting the spacious squares which are scattered throughout.

Saigon presents a cheerful aspect, jolly, spacious and elegant, while boasting the very best conditions of hygiene and safety.

The progress we have made in such a short time illustrates quite clearly the effort and energy which has been expended in order for Saigon to become recognised as the foremost city in Indo-China.

Indeed, if we think that in 1859, the date of the occupation by Admiral Rigault de Genouilly, Saigon was a dirty city filled with stinking swamps, its streets lined with unhealthy and badly-built huts, one can easily realise the importance of this change to the developing wealth of our capital of Cochinchina, the trade and industry of which continues to develop day by day.

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Cap Saint-Jacques (Vũng Tàu)

Arrival in Saigon – The author assumes that the reader of this brochure is arriving for the first time in the country. The many surprises for the new arrival include the wonderful baie des Cocotiers (Coconut Bay), Cap Saint-Jacques (Vũng Tàu) and the banks of the Saigon river. As we make our way up river, passing the rice fields and various plantations, we do not complain about the slow progress of the ship, which is partly due to the many twists and turns in the river, and partly due to the shifting sandbanks which the ship must carefully avoid.

Eventually in the distance we see the spires of the Saigon Cathedral, then gradually, the main monuments of the city and the rows of the large trees which line its boulevards and gardens.

As it makes its way towards its destination, the ship overtakes other merchant ships which are anchored along the shore and the city begins to reveal itself, scattered in all directions under the shade of thick vegetation.

A few brief orders are shouted, the whistle is blown repeatedly, and after a great deal of noise, the engine stops. The ship has docked at either the Messageries Maritimes or the Charner pier, the latter facing the main boulevard of that name.

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Saigon – awaiting the arrival of the courrier ship

A crowd of people, many stylishly dressed in white, awaits the arrival of friends, relatives or letters and parcels from France. This little spectacle touches your heart and makes you feel less homesick…

But the time for dreaming is over and life begins again. More shouting – from porters competing for luggage, hotel grooms handing out the calling cards of their hostelries, Chinese traders offering made-to-measure suits and shoes for almost nothing. All of this brings you back to reality.

Those whose ship has docked at the quai des Messageries Maritimes have a choice of transportation. If you want to save time, take a sampan and disembark near the boulevard Charner (Nguyễn Huệ). Alternatively, if you’re not in a hurry, hire a carriage or pousse-pousse and travel across the recently-built bridge which spans the arroyo-Chinois.

Those whose ship has docked at the Charner pier may very easily walk into town.

Visiting the city – According to Alexandre Dumas, there are three ways to tour a city: visiting the major monuments, visiting one neighbourhood after another, or, simplest of all, going from place to place visiting what lies immediately in front of you. We will tour Saigon in the latter way, believing it to be the most enjoyable and the most interesting.

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A corner of boulevard Charner, Saigon

We will begin on the quayside, facing the boulevard Charner, once a muddy and unhealthy arroyo. Later it was filled, the land was levelled, houses were built alongside it, and boulevard Charner was created.

The name of boulevard Charner comes from the great admiral who distinguished himself during the conquest of 1859. This boulevard leads to the recently-built Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), the architecture of which is a compound of different styles. The effect is original and pretty. Many electric arc lamps illuminate the boulevard, as well as the neighbouring streets of the city centre.

Note the imposing Hôtel des Douanes et Régies (Customs and Excise Department), located at the junction of boulevard Charner and the quayside.

Continuing along the river, we see proud warships at anchor; sampans and other small boats ply the water in all directions; and in some places, junks and other cargo ships load or unload their goods. The docks are crowded with people and cargo and the movement is incessant.

We pass in front of the rue Catinat (Đồng Khởi), which commences at the quai Francis-Garnier and leads up to the Cathedral.

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The statue of Admiral Rigault-de-Genouilly

We continue along the river, passing in front of the offices of the Chargeurs Réunis, the Messageries Fluviales, and various other transportation companies.

We arrive at the place Rigault-de-Genouilly (Mê Linh square), named after the famous French admiral to whom we owe the conquest of Cochinchina. On the square is a very beautiful statue of the admiral in full battle dress. This statue was installed in 1878 by national subscription. Next to it stands a high pyramid erected in memory of Doudart de Lagrée, the frigate commander who led the Mekong Expedition. This latter monument is surrounded by cannon which were confiscated from the enemy.

Many streets are arranged in a fan shape around the place Rigault-de-Genouilly, the most important being rue Paul Blanchy (Hai Bà Trưng). One of the longest streets in Saigon, it connects the river with an outer suburb, passing through much of the city.

Continuing through this square we reach the Naval stores and maintenance depots, the office of the Naval Commander, the Naval Artillery workshops, and then, on the boulevard Luro (Tôn Đức Thắng), the Naval Arsenal.

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The main entrance to the Naval Arsenal

The Arsenal is undoubtedly the largest and busiest industrial installation in Saigon, staffed by large numbers of European and local civilian employees of all categories, not to mention the soldiers and sailors who are stationed here. Its dry dock permits our largest ships to be repaired easily.

Let’s now continue to the end of the boulevard Luro. After passing several charming villas and a number of religious institutions, we arrive at a vast square with manicured lawns, situated in front of the Colonial Infantry Barracks.

The Barracks were built on the site of an Annamite Citadel and are composed of large and airy iron pavilions, with surrounding vérandahs on each floor. The rooms are spacious and clean and the pathways connecting the pavilions are planted with trees; in short, the ensemble gives a very pleasing impression. Needless to say, the most rigorous standards of hygiene are observed here, offering our soldiers excellent conditions for safety and comfort.

All travellers are unanimous in saying that Saigon’s colonial barracks are the most beautiful in the world.

To further enhance the well-being of our military, a Cercle des Soldats et Marins (Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Club) has been installed right next to the barracks. A charming house serves as a reading room with a library of 1,500 volumes; a military theatre company gives evening performances at certain times in a special hall; and a bar sells refreshments at very low prices.

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The Colonial Infantry Barracks

All of this offers our troops a range of diversions which they can enjoy without leaving the neighbourhood, and especially without incurring significant expenditure.

If one also mentions the games and sporting events of all kinds which are on offer in the garden of the Cercle, we may conclude rightly that the French soldier, when compared with the soldiers of other nations, is much better provided for in many respects.

Coming out of the barracks, our eyes are drawn to an area located close by, set amidst a forest of tall trees: it’s the Botanical and Zoological Gardens.

This institution, criss-crossed by wide and well-designed pathways, contains countless varieties of plants and shrubs, as well as cages containing animals of all kinds. Wild beasts represented here range from deer to elephants.

From time to time, the roar of a panther may be heard, but visitors have no need to worry and can continue their pleasant tour of the gardens. A large pavilion serves as an aviary where finches live in harmony with waders.

A forest kiosk showcases all of the species and varieties of wood in the country.

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The Botanical and Zoological Gardens

The Botanical and Zoological Gardens is thus a true educational resource and visitors leave amazed and very satisfied, because they have learned so much about the fauna and flora of Indo-China.

The street in front of the Barracks is the boulevard Norodom (the name of the former king of Cambodia), and as we walk west along this street we find the Temple protestant (Protestant Church), the Conseil de guerre (Council of War), the Hôtel du Général de Division, and the Cercle militaire (Officers’ Mess).

Further along, as we pass behind the Cathedral, we reach the impressive statue in memory of Gambetta, erected by public subscription on 5 May 1889 under the title “Defender of colonial policy.” The statue depicts the great man standing proudly; the inclusion of a soldier and a sailor at his feet gives a martial flavour to the entire work.

At the end of boulevard Norodom, we arrive at the Palace of the Governor General, a princely and sumptuous residence set amidst vast gardens. This monument cost 12 million francs.

Returning to the Cathedral and making our way round to its front entrance, we find the statue of the Bishop of Adran, a peace-loving prelate and a true Frenchman.

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Saigon Cathedral

The Cathedral is a remarkable building of which the Saïgonnais are very proud. Thanks to its red brickwork, it bears a strong resemblance to the new church of the place des Abbesses in Paris. Built in 1877, the Cathedral cost 2.5 million francs.

A curious and original spectacle which deserves to be seen is the exit of the congregation from mass every Sunday morning. Here the pretty fashions of the European ladies, and the white suits worn without exception by all their men folk, mingle with the garish multicoloured outfits of the Indian women and the dark costumes of the Annamites.

On the place de la Cathédrale we find the Hôtel des Postes (Post Office), a magnificent building with a hall of grandiose dimensions; in short, a monument which honours the city.

Opposite the Cathedral, the rue Catinat leads down to the river. Catinat was the name of the first French corvette which bombarded the forts of Tourane in 1852. This street is the city’s oldest and largest, and it crosses Saigon at its centre point. As we travel down it, we find the Treasury, the Cadastre (Mapping Office), the Hôtel du Commandant de la la Brigade Coloniale, some administrative offices, and then shops, grand cafés and hotels.

In the middle of the rue Catinat, majestic and splendid, stands the Municipal Theatre, the pride of all the city’s inhabitants. Its elegant façade, tasteful interior decor and clever stage layout are a veritable marvel. Theatre troupes specialising in opera, comic opera, operetta and comedy give performances here four times a week, six months of year. The artists are engaged at great expense and their reputations are the best guarantee of success; performances are well attended by the entire European population, and passing travellers are also happy to spend their evenings here.

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Saigon Municipal Theatre

Behind the Theatre is the electricity station. The main cafés are also located close to the Theatre; their appearance has nothing of the severity and coldness of the British cafés in Colombo or Singapore. Their rooms are spacious, pretty, filled with greenery and furnished with powerful electric fans; in short, they have an attractive appearance. Regular musical events are also organised in the large café terraces to cater for the European clientele.

Further down the street, beyond the Theatre, we find the houses of European traders and industrialists, large grocery stores run by Chinese merchants, and a wide variety of other shops, including basket weavers, tailors, shoemakers and watchmakers.

In the daytime, the animation on rue Catinat is somewhat limited, but towards the end of the day, the traffic increases as many people come here in their carriages to meet friends and acquaintances. It’s just like any major junction at 6pm on the boulevards of France.

At this time of day, the European ladies take advantage of the cooler temperatures to do their shopping, or simply to admire the stalls lit by electricity, the pretty appearance of which brings to mind the shops on the rue de Rivoli. Indeed, for our Saïgonnais, the rue Catinat is both the rue de Rivoli and the boulevard des Italiens.

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A view of boulevard Bonard

Another of the busiest places in the evenings is boulevard Bonard (Lê Lợi), which cuts across both the rue Catinat and the boulevard Charner. Lined with trees and decorated with beautiful lawns, it is a favourite spot for promenades.

A statue of Francis Garnier stands at the eastern end of this street, facing the Theatre. Nearby, at the intersection of the boulevards Bonard and Charner, a bandstand lit by electricity provides a forum for musicians of the Colonial Regiment and Musique de la Flotte every Wednesday night.

From the junction where the boulevard Bonard meets the rue Pellerin (Pasteur), we may visit the Palace of the Lieutenant Governor on the rue de Lagrandière (Lý Tự Trọng), a thoroughfare which leads back to the rue Catinat. Or we may continue up as far as the rue Taberd (Nguyễn Du), where we may find the Masonic Lodge, the local Société Philharmonique, and the Jardin de la Ville (City Park). The latter is beautifully laid out, with many trees and wide lawns intersected by neat pathways.

Continuing westward, we arrive at the camp des Mares, where both the barracks of the Annamite Rifle Regiment and a provisional camp of the Colonial Infantry are located. The camp des Mares is located on the Plain of the Tombs, which is entirely covered with ruined funerary monuments. The appearance of this place would be unpleasant, were it not for the bushes and leafy trees which dot the area.

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A race meeting at the Saigon Racecourse

Nearby, the beautiful Racecourse offers a cheerful note which compensates for the poor impression given by its dismal surroundings. Its stylish and well appointed spectator stands give it the look of a Parisian racecourse.

Returning via the rue Chasseloup-Laubat (Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai), we pass the northern perimeter of the Jardin de la Ville, which on this side contains the Vélodrome, and the facilities of the local sports society.

Going straight on, we pass the Water Tower and eventually arrive back at the Colonial Infantry Barracks,

The visitor will be struck by the splendour of the principal streets which cross the city, including notably the rues de Lagrandière, d’Espagne (Lê Thánh Tôn) and Paul Blanchy, all shaded by tall trees and lined with graceful villas set in manicured gardens full of exotic flowers and shrubs.

Visitors are recommended to visit the morning market on boulevard Charner. In fact the market, with its eight large halls, is insufficient to house the large number of merchants who do business here, and consequently many have set up shop in the surrounding streets. It would be superfluous to describe the market in detail; suffice it to say that it is both a native and a European market. In summary, a very interesting free spectacle.

Other places to tempt visitors include the Museum, which is always very interesting to visit. Nearby is the Military Hospital, with its pavilions similar in design to those of the Colonial Infantry Barracks.

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The second City Market (1870-1914)

Circles and societies – Many distractions are offered to Saïgonnais, thanks to the various societies which provide splendid entertainments: I will mention first of all the Société Indo-Chinoise de Secours Mutuels des anciens Militaires et Marins, which provides invaluable services; then I will mention the Cercle Colonial, the Cercle Militaire, the Société Philharmonique, the Société sportive, and the Société Hippique (Equine Society) which organises various popular events at its racecourse on the Plain of Tombs.

Surrounding areas – Thanks to the Tour d’Inspection, we can in a very short time discover the surrounding areas of the city. The Tour d’Inspection is a long standing tradition which involves following a specific route out of the city and back again. Every evening at around 6pm, after work is finished, most Saïgonnais feel the need to escape the sweltering heat by heading out of town for a breath of fresh air. Travelling in carriages, automobiles, pousse-pousse or even on horseback, they generally travel from Saigon to Gia-Dinh, a very pretty village located 5 kilometres from the city, with the return journey via the Botanical and Zoological Gardens. These roads are very pleasant and well maintained.

There are also other promenades on offer, such as that which takes visitors to Cholon, six kilometres from Saigon.

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A Chợ Lớn street scene

Cholon – It would fill up a whole book to talk about this city, which has been called the most industrial and commercial city of all Indo-China. A visit to Cholon is essential for all newly arrived persons and its sights will surely remain etched on the memory. The means of transportation to get there are also quick, easy and inexpensive.

Bishop of Adran’s Tomb – It is also recommended to visit the tomb of the Bishop of Adran. Passing along rue Paul-Blanchy, the 3rd pont de l’Avalanche (Kiệu Bridge) and the route de Go-Vap, we then take the route de Tong-Kéou which crosses the canal de Ceinture (Belt Canal) and the Plain of Tombs. The tomb of the Bishop is classified as a national monument.

Population

The population of Saigon consists of a variety of nationalities. Here are the approximate figures:

French: 6,000
Other Europeans: 5,000
Annamites: 30,000
Cambodians: 150
Chinese: 13,000
Indians: 1.000
Japanese: 100
Malays: 500
Total: 55,750

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A Vietnamese house

The Annamites form several classes that are easily distinguished by the costume they wear.

Workers are generally coarsely dressed and not very stylish in their appearance; they walk barefoot.

Supervisors and clerical staff dress in white trousers and a dark shirt.

Finally there is the upper class, which includes retailers, attorneys and key employees of the government or large industries. These include alumni of the Écoles Chasseloup-Laubat and Taberd who have a higher education. Their female equivalent often dresses in European fashions.

Most Annamites carry an umbrella in any season, both for luxury and utility, for this item is necessary to protect against both the rain and the sun.

In general, the Chinese are in charge of trade and commerce. It is also noted that many small industries, such as tailoring, shoemaking and watchmaking on the rue Catinat, are the domain of the “sons of Heaven.”

Some Chinese own large merchant houses in Saigon and have very large interests in the market. Several of these are naturalised Frenchmen.

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A member of the Chettyar (Tamil) community in Saigon

The Indians we encounter in the city are the subjects of Pondicherry. Educated and reliable, they occupy trusted employment in commerce, administration and the police force.

The Hindus, commonly named Malabars, are small traders. They do small trade and above all exchange money. Many tiny stalls around the city are held by them.

One kind of Indian, the Chettyars, are very oddly dressed. Wrapped in a white cloth, head shaved, forehead and cheeks decorated with ash, they lie in wait for the naïve European who needs money. They lend willingly, but only with strong guarantees and at a very high rate of interest.

The Malays keep properties and drive carriages. However, on the coast at Cap Saint-Jacques, many Malays are engaged in fishing and conduct a considerable trade.

Hygiene

The main hygiene requirements to be observed by Europeans, especially when they first arrive, are as follows:

Frequent and light meals, not too much meat; regular use of coffee in small doses, hot or cold.

Frozen drinks are beneficial for taste and hygiene, but their excessive use, as with all things for that matter, should be avoided.

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A European house in Saigon

The siesta is more harmful than useful, but it takes a tremendous will to abstain.

Clothing made from flannel or wool should be considered by all colonials.

These ideas are purely personal ones, but there are many other common sense precautions which are required for the preservation of health.

General rates (in piastres)

Carriages
Racecourse: 1st class – 0.25, 2nd class – 0.15
Return journey (15 minute stop): 1st class – 0.35, 2nd class – 0.20
First hour: 1st class – 0.50; 2nd class – 0.30
Subsequent hours: 1st class – 0.40; 2nd class – 0.25
Saigon to Cholon: 1st class – 0.70; 2nd class – 0.50
Saigon to Cholon return (1 hour stop): 1st class –1.30; 2nd class – 0.90
Tour d’Inspection, simple: 1st class – 0.90; 2nd class – 0.60
Grand Tour d’Inspection: 1st class – 1.50; 2nd class – 1.00

Pousse-pousse
Racecourse: 0.10
First hour: 0 25
Subsequent hours: 0.20

14 CFTI Gare boulevard Charner

The steam tramway terminus on boulevard Charner

Saigon-Cholon Steam Tramway
Saigon to Cholon: 1st class – 0.10; 2nd class – 0.06; 3rd class – 0.03

Other items

Stamps, postcards, letter cards and stamped envelopes are sold at the Hôtel des Postes and in branch post offices at the same price as in France (giving to the piastre a constant value of 2.50 francs).

We close these pages without wanting to dwell on anything at length or to stray outside the framework outlined. We just wanted to give, simply and in a succinct way, some information about the city and its surroundings. We hope that this brochure will be received benevolently by the public. Soon we plan to publish a more substantial guide giving exact details of the commerce, industry, agriculture, etc, of the country.

Hoping in this way to be helpful to all new arrivals in the colony, the author very modestly permits himself to dedicate this pamphlet to all its readers.

L. I., June 1906

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.

Icons of Old Saigon – The Electricity Building, 1896

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This article was published previously in Saigoneer http://saigoneer.com

The recently rebuilt EVN Hồ Chí Minh City Power Company building at 72 Hai Bà Trưng stands on the site of Saigon’s very first electricity station.

Electricity was first used in Indochina in the late 1870s to set up a telegraphic network, but it took another two decades to develop coal-fired steam generators which could function efficiently in the tropical climate and provide sufficient power for street lighting.

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One of the original oil lamps on rue Catinat in 1895

In the meantime, Saigon’s streets were lit by oil lamps.

As late as 1887, Leon Caubert wrote: “It seems that dynamos suffer almost as much as men from the humidity which prevails almost constantly here in Cochinchina, inducing oxidisation with surprising speed. However, it must be said that, although the city is still lit by oil, the quantity of Saigon’s street lights makes up for their quality.”

Soon after this the technical obstacles were overcome, and in 1896 the Société d’Électricité de Saigon (SEVS) was founded to supply electricity to the Cochinchina capital. In the same year, the company opened its first AC generating electricity station on the rue Nationale in Saigon, the site still occupied today by the EVN Hồ Chí Minh City Power Company (Tổng công ty Điện lực thành phố Hồ Chí Minh) at 72 Hai Bà Trưng. A substation was later opened in Chợ Lớn.

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Three Laval turbines were installed in the 1896 electricity generating station

According to the Bulletin économique de l’Indo-Chine of 1908, “In Saigon, light is provided by the factory of the Société d’électricité de la ville de Saigon, which is actuated by steam pumping apparatus with a driving force of 1,100 horsepower.” Street lighting was initially confined to the two city centres and comprised arc lamps which generated light by creating a spark or electric arc between two carbon rods inside a gas-filled glass bulb.

In 1909, SEVS was bought out by the Compagnie des eaux et d’électricité d’Indochine (CEE, founded 1900), which already held the concessions for water in Saigon and Chợ Lớn and both water and electricity in Phnom Penh. In this way, CEE secured a monopoly on the distribution of water and electricity in the three largest cities of Cochinchina and Cambodia. It would remain the largest of the three electricity suppliers in Cochinchina until the departure of the French, the other two companies being the Société centrale d’éclairage et d’energie (SCEE), covering Cần Thơ and the Mekong Delta, and the Union électrique d’Indochine (UNEDI), serving Cap Saint-Jacques and Phan Thiết.

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CEE’s “Centrale-Éléctrique” in Chợ Quán opened in 1913

Before World War I, electricity was used almost exclusively for street lighting, and the extent of the illumination remained extremely limited. In 1910, colonial lawyer George Durrwell commented that, even in the vicinity of the Saigon Municipal Theatre, “the lighting is very poor, despite the pretty penny spent from the municipal budget on the profusion of electric lamps. This is truly “light hidden under a bushel.” Only the place du Théâtre forms a bright spot amidst the darkness.”

In June 1913, CEE moved to rectify this situation by opening a much larger AC three-phase electricity plant at Chợ Quán, with a design capacity of 5,000 kWH. This new “Centrale-Éléctrique” and its various substations generated enough electricity to meet the basic street lighting needs of Saigon, Chợ Lớn and several outlying areas, including Lái Thiêu and Thủ Dầu Một.

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Another view of CEE’s “Centrale-Éléctrique” in Chợ Quán

In 1913, the old electricity generating station on rue Paul Blanchy (formerly the rue Nationale) became a substation. By this time, CEE also had substations at the Chateau d’eau [modern Turtle Lake], boulevard Norodom [Lê Duẩn], Chợ Đũi, Phú Thọ, Khánh Hội and Tân Sơn Nhất, as well as within important civic installations such as the Palace of the Government, the Hôtel de ville and the Municipal Theatre.

After World War I, the electrification of the Saigon tramway network and the increasing use of electricity for home lighting led to a significant increase in demand. Improvements in steam turbine design increased generator efficiency many times over, and by 1930, CEE’s annual power output had reached 37.8 million kWH.

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A new CEE headquarters building was inaugurated in the late 1950s

Demand for electricity increased further in the late 1930s, driven by an expanding economy and increased use of household electrical appliances. By 1942, CEE was generating 56.5 million kWH per annum out of an Indochina total of 115.5 million kWH, and all of the major towns in its catchment area had been connected to the grid.

Following the departure of the French, the old 1896 electricity station was demolished and replaced by a new electric company headquarters building. The current building, the third on this historic site, was inaugurated in 2011.

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Inaugurated in 2011. the current EVN Hồ Chí Minh City Power Company building at 72 Hai Bà Trưng is the third to stand on this historic site

Tim Doling is the author of the guidebook Exploring Saigon-Chợ Lớn – Vanishing heritage of Hồ Chí Minh City (Nhà Xuất Bản Thế Giới, Hà Nội, 2019)

A full index of all Tim’s blog articles since November 2013 is now available here.

Join the Facebook group pages Saigon-Chợ Lớn Then & Now to see historic photographs juxtaposed with new ones taken in the same locations, and Đài Quan sát Di sản Sài Gòn – Saigon Heritage Observatory for up-to-date information on conservation issues in Saigon and Chợ Lớn.